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Finally! Fast enough internet to post pics!
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
My new apartment!
After months of broken promises from the American University regarding its very unsuccessful move to the new campus, the majority of international students have decided to move out of the temporary housing – before they move us to yet another location. My friends and I have found an amazing apartment in Zamalek, 5 minutes from the corniche, and right above a grocery store. What more could you ask for?
In other news, this week the AUC folkloric dance troupe started rehearsal. We are currently learning a beledi routine that is 10 minutes long. This is a sort of audition process. The choreographer is a very well established dancer and choreographer here in Cairo, and he is kicking out butts! The technique for Egyptian style taught by Americans is different enough, let alone learning from an Egyptian! It’s a completely different aesthetic, body posture, and movement from the tribal style I have become comfortable with over the last three years. It’s becoming painfully obvious how much raqs sharqi I’ve forgotten…nothing like six hours a week of practice to help me remember!
Before these rehearsals started, I had a private session with Astryd Farah before she left for the States. Her choreography was beautiful, and I appreciated the attention to detail of the lyrics of the song. Hopefully she will be coming to Atlanta in the future for a workshop. Besides her session and the session with Raqia, trying to contact instructors here is hard because everyone is teaching workshops in Europe or North America at the moment.
My music lessons are going very well. We learned Sidi Mansour this week in class. Dr. Wael also gave us a paper on the Early – Islamic era of oriental music. He will be giving us papers on all five of the eras of oriental music. We have to write summaries on each section, I will post them here for all of my scadian friends ☺ I’m going to start taking qanoon lessons twice a week instead of one to learn as much as I can before I go back.
As far as traveling goes – my friends and I are planning to go to Sharm el Sheikh in the next weekend or so and I’m going to Dubai!!
In other news, this week the AUC folkloric dance troupe started rehearsal. We are currently learning a beledi routine that is 10 minutes long. This is a sort of audition process. The choreographer is a very well established dancer and choreographer here in Cairo, and he is kicking out butts! The technique for Egyptian style taught by Americans is different enough, let alone learning from an Egyptian! It’s a completely different aesthetic, body posture, and movement from the tribal style I have become comfortable with over the last three years. It’s becoming painfully obvious how much raqs sharqi I’ve forgotten…nothing like six hours a week of practice to help me remember!
Before these rehearsals started, I had a private session with Astryd Farah before she left for the States. Her choreography was beautiful, and I appreciated the attention to detail of the lyrics of the song. Hopefully she will be coming to Atlanta in the future for a workshop. Besides her session and the session with Raqia, trying to contact instructors here is hard because everyone is teaching workshops in Europe or North America at the moment.
My music lessons are going very well. We learned Sidi Mansour this week in class. Dr. Wael also gave us a paper on the Early – Islamic era of oriental music. He will be giving us papers on all five of the eras of oriental music. We have to write summaries on each section, I will post them here for all of my scadian friends ☺ I’m going to start taking qanoon lessons twice a week instead of one to learn as much as I can before I go back.
As far as traveling goes – my friends and I are planning to go to Sharm el Sheikh in the next weekend or so and I’m going to Dubai!!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Random photos with AUC friends
Here are a bunch of photos from some field trips we took before school started and during Ramadan
Jordan Part I
Choosing to study abroad this semester in Cairo this semester was luck – both good and bad. Bad because AUC decided to move its entire campus to a new location when no one was ready including the new campus itself, and good because Ramadan was in the month of September, meaning that we got a lot of days off for the two Eids. For the first Eid, I decided to take a nine-day trip to Jordan to meet my cousins for the first time. Jordan was beautiful, and my family was amazing. I met all of my aunts’ children, their children, and I believe I saw every ancient rock in Jordan and then some.
My last name is Qaqish. Qaqish is a Christian family that has a long history that has thankfully been well documented. The Qaqish family has been in Jordan for the past 400 years. Before, we were a tribe based in Syria, and before that, we inhabited the gulf region. Our family is a Christian family, one of the few in Jordan. We come from the village of Salt, a small city in picturesque mountains close to Palestine west of Amman.
In a nutshell, we went to Petra, As Salt, Madaba, Mount Nebo, the Dead Sea, and Jerash. I also experienced Jordanian home cooked meals at their finest including Maqlooba, Malfouf, Kufta, and of course Mensaf!
The country of Jordan is cleaner than Egypt. In Cairo alone, there are 28 million people living in the city. Jordan’s population for the whole country is under 10 million. While Jordan is much smaller, it is also much less crowded than Egypt. The people of Jordan are very prideful and calm, and all are very patriotic and very proud of their King Abdullah and the late King Hussein. Amman is very different from the sentiments of the crowded and rushed cities of Cairo. Even the call to prayer seemed more musical and beautiful compared to what I hear in Egypt.
As Salt
My cousin Amer and his wife Joanna (and their 1.5 year old Faris!) took me to Salt to see the church where my dad and his 7 brothers and sisters were baptized. The church itself was about 450 years old, and we were there for a while so I could take photos of everything there. Before we left, I lit a candle to make a prayer. After wards in the twilight before the sunset, we drove around the countryside, up and down the mountains and hills that made As Salt. When it became dark, we stopped off the side of the road and I saw the outline of Palestine in lights.
More to come about the trip!
My last name is Qaqish. Qaqish is a Christian family that has a long history that has thankfully been well documented. The Qaqish family has been in Jordan for the past 400 years. Before, we were a tribe based in Syria, and before that, we inhabited the gulf region. Our family is a Christian family, one of the few in Jordan. We come from the village of Salt, a small city in picturesque mountains close to Palestine west of Amman.
In a nutshell, we went to Petra, As Salt, Madaba, Mount Nebo, the Dead Sea, and Jerash. I also experienced Jordanian home cooked meals at their finest including Maqlooba, Malfouf, Kufta, and of course Mensaf!
The country of Jordan is cleaner than Egypt. In Cairo alone, there are 28 million people living in the city. Jordan’s population for the whole country is under 10 million. While Jordan is much smaller, it is also much less crowded than Egypt. The people of Jordan are very prideful and calm, and all are very patriotic and very proud of their King Abdullah and the late King Hussein. Amman is very different from the sentiments of the crowded and rushed cities of Cairo. Even the call to prayer seemed more musical and beautiful compared to what I hear in Egypt.
As Salt
My cousin Amer and his wife Joanna (and their 1.5 year old Faris!) took me to Salt to see the church where my dad and his 7 brothers and sisters were baptized. The church itself was about 450 years old, and we were there for a while so I could take photos of everything there. Before we left, I lit a candle to make a prayer. After wards in the twilight before the sunset, we drove around the countryside, up and down the mountains and hills that made As Salt. When it became dark, we stopped off the side of the road and I saw the outline of Palestine in lights.
More to come about the trip!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Music Reborn
It’s been at least 5 years since I’ve picked up my violin. Five years ago I was first chair in my high school orchestra and I dreaded going to rehearsal. I felt like such a fake. I didn’t practice multiple hours a day so who was I to think I could actually play the violin? My technique was not where it should have been for someone who had been playing for seven years. I knew that. I also knew that I would never amount to any sort of musician. My fears and worries came to a boiling point when I visited a potential college in the spring semester of my senior year. I had a nervous breakdown before my audition for the music program, and I was so upset I didn’t even play my piece. After that I basically lost all passion for the violin, until last year.
Being in a community of artists at home has really sparked my need to play the violin again. Going to Pennsic and seeing other musicians who weren’t practice-crazed and worrying about their next concerto really gave me hope that I could play my violin and actually enjoy it! Pennsic gave me the inspiration to explore Arabic music, and it just so happened that I am able to take six hours of music courses here at AUC.
The first class I signed up for was the Arabic music ensemble, which of course had to be taken in conjunction with Arabic music theory. I feel like I am at a music workshop similar to what you would find at TribalCon or Triboriginal for four hours a week! My instructor, Dr. Wael has a PhD in sound engineering, plays the Qanoon professionally, and also is a professor at the Cairo Music Conservatory. He is very patient with us three Americans in his class and I feel that I am going to learn a lot. In addition to these classes, Dr. Wael invited us to rehearse with the AUC Arab Music Ensemble twice a week, which is comprised of other AUC students who play a variety of instruments Arab style. This ensemble also plays for the folkloric troupe, which I plan to join. ☺
So if these courses weren’t enough, I found that I could take private lessons through the University as a part of my course load…aka I don’t pay anything extra! I signed up for Qanoon lessons with Dr. Wael and lessons with the violin instructor, Dr. Munir. I met with Dr. Munir last week at the last minute, registering for the class the same day. I didn’t have my violin but we talked about what I would like to accomplish in my time here, and my past experiences with the violin. Dr. Munir is very serious about music; it’s his life. He received his PhD in music in Russia circa 1976 and also teaches at the Cairo Music Conservatory. For as intense as he seems to be, he also seems to be infinitely patient and willing to work with me. I have my first lesson with him this Tuesday, and while I am slightly terrified, part of me thinks this is for the better.
This past weekend my friend and I took a visit to Mohammed Ali Street to pick up a tabla for her, and castobans and rayesh for me (the finger tools needed to play the Qanoon). We bumped into Khamis Henkesh and his shop. I was a bit star stuck, so we jammed with him a bit on his multiple tablas he hand makes. I also met up with Dr. Munir to pick up the SCALE BOOK OF DEATH. I looked at the first page and I can barely do the first two measures – but this is a good thing, really. After gawking at the music in front of me, Dr. Munir then proceeded to give me his life story and how he used yoga to improve his violin technique and avoid carpel tunnel. He wants to challenge me in both the Eastern and Western style; we’ll see how far I can go…
Being in a community of artists at home has really sparked my need to play the violin again. Going to Pennsic and seeing other musicians who weren’t practice-crazed and worrying about their next concerto really gave me hope that I could play my violin and actually enjoy it! Pennsic gave me the inspiration to explore Arabic music, and it just so happened that I am able to take six hours of music courses here at AUC.
The first class I signed up for was the Arabic music ensemble, which of course had to be taken in conjunction with Arabic music theory. I feel like I am at a music workshop similar to what you would find at TribalCon or Triboriginal for four hours a week! My instructor, Dr. Wael has a PhD in sound engineering, plays the Qanoon professionally, and also is a professor at the Cairo Music Conservatory. He is very patient with us three Americans in his class and I feel that I am going to learn a lot. In addition to these classes, Dr. Wael invited us to rehearse with the AUC Arab Music Ensemble twice a week, which is comprised of other AUC students who play a variety of instruments Arab style. This ensemble also plays for the folkloric troupe, which I plan to join. ☺
So if these courses weren’t enough, I found that I could take private lessons through the University as a part of my course load…aka I don’t pay anything extra! I signed up for Qanoon lessons with Dr. Wael and lessons with the violin instructor, Dr. Munir. I met with Dr. Munir last week at the last minute, registering for the class the same day. I didn’t have my violin but we talked about what I would like to accomplish in my time here, and my past experiences with the violin. Dr. Munir is very serious about music; it’s his life. He received his PhD in music in Russia circa 1976 and also teaches at the Cairo Music Conservatory. For as intense as he seems to be, he also seems to be infinitely patient and willing to work with me. I have my first lesson with him this Tuesday, and while I am slightly terrified, part of me thinks this is for the better.
This past weekend my friend and I took a visit to Mohammed Ali Street to pick up a tabla for her, and castobans and rayesh for me (the finger tools needed to play the Qanoon). We bumped into Khamis Henkesh and his shop. I was a bit star stuck, so we jammed with him a bit on his multiple tablas he hand makes. I also met up with Dr. Munir to pick up the SCALE BOOK OF DEATH. I looked at the first page and I can barely do the first two measures – but this is a good thing, really. After gawking at the music in front of me, Dr. Munir then proceeded to give me his life story and how he used yoga to improve his violin technique and avoid carpel tunnel. He wants to challenge me in both the Eastern and Western style; we’ll see how far I can go…
Friday, September 19, 2008
Sexual Harassment in Egypt
My experience in Cairo so far has been a reaction to the culture. In preparing myself to be in Cairo, I’ve heard sooo many things a woman should to avoid being harassed. For those of you who I told about the wet hair thing, totally not true – my Egyptian friends laughed at me when I asked! But it pretty much boils down to this – whether or not you are wearing hijab, abaya, niqab, or nothing at all you will be harassed at some point.
Walking just outside of our hotel, men will generally make kissing noises, or try to gain your attention with the 2 phrases they may know in English. These men vary from little boys who may run up to you and pinch your bottom, to the Egyptian soldier trying to look cool in front of his peers. Even drivers will honk in a specific rhythm (supposedly mimicking “Ana Bahebek” or I love you” to get your attention.
Whatever they do to try to get your attention, men here see harassment as cool. It’s a boost to reassure their masculinity. As a foreigner, my fellow international students and I are treats for their eyes, something new and exotic. This is how it was explained to us by AUC administration during our sexual harassment meeting. We will attract attention no matter if we cover our hair, legs, and arms or not. But, the extent of harassment varies greatly because of what you wear and how you act.
So what to do and what not do? One of the best things you can do is to dress modestly. Loose, layered clothing that is neat and clean. The more distinguished you look, the better off you may be. Do you need to cover your hair? I’ve found it’s really up to you. Some places, like the pyramids for example, it’s actually very convenient because of the sun and you fend off vendors trying to sell you cheap turbans.
When I go to Khan el Khalili, I don’t cover my hair, but I do make a point to dress much more moderately. The vendors in Khan are rather funny. Don’t be surprised if you go and you hear phrases like “Spend you money here, make you very happy” or “Come to my shop, and marry me, I promise I shower everyday”
Some things that I have learned besides how to dress are what to say. The Arabic survival course really helped because the Egyptian dialect of Arabic is very different from the Modern Standard Arabic I’ve learned in the States. Greeting someone with Salam Aleikum without a smiling face will release the tension of ‘them vs. you’ and asserts you as a dignified person. The immediate reaction to Salam Alikum is Aleikem aSalam, which really lets this person know that you are not flirting or wanting other behavior besides respect. If someone will not stop trying to get your attention there are two phrases that greatly help.
1. Walk over to them sternly, make the sternest face you can, and say “3yb!”. Aiyb basically means shame and will remind these men of the days their mother would chastise them for being bad. You can also make the tisk tisk tisk hand gesture with this for added emphasis. My residence director has had great success with this phrase, and practicing saying Aiyb with a stern face is very amusing – although don’t crack when you do it for real!
2. The second phrase, which really should be used if a male is staring at you is “Ghud el Basr” (I may have not transliterated that correctly). This comes straight out of the Quran and means “Avert your gaze”. Saying this sternly will also be chastising as you are reminding the male not only that he shouldn’t be staring at you, but also that you
These phrases are more for men and boys that you won’t be in contact with everyday or that say something really inappropriate. For males that you come in contact with in a daily basis, i.e. shopkeepers, or kids on the street, if you set a tone initially that you mean business and you are not to be mocked or harassed they will respect you for it. They will even become protective of you if they see someone trying to harass you in or give you a hard time!
Besides these things, the number one most important thing to do IS TO IGNORE THEM. Men want to see a rise from you, no matter positive, negative, angry, or whatever. By ignoring them, or pretending that they don’t exist, they will stop immediately. If they continue to persist in getting your attention, the phrases above should be used. Also, don’t walk the streets of Cairo by yourself; go with a group, especially one that is mixed with males and females. It really helps. This has been my experience in Egypt thus far, and it has been useful. I haven’t had more than the usual phrases, kissing noises, and marriage proposals. ☺
Walking just outside of our hotel, men will generally make kissing noises, or try to gain your attention with the 2 phrases they may know in English. These men vary from little boys who may run up to you and pinch your bottom, to the Egyptian soldier trying to look cool in front of his peers. Even drivers will honk in a specific rhythm (supposedly mimicking “Ana Bahebek” or I love you” to get your attention.
Whatever they do to try to get your attention, men here see harassment as cool. It’s a boost to reassure their masculinity. As a foreigner, my fellow international students and I are treats for their eyes, something new and exotic. This is how it was explained to us by AUC administration during our sexual harassment meeting. We will attract attention no matter if we cover our hair, legs, and arms or not. But, the extent of harassment varies greatly because of what you wear and how you act.
So what to do and what not do? One of the best things you can do is to dress modestly. Loose, layered clothing that is neat and clean. The more distinguished you look, the better off you may be. Do you need to cover your hair? I’ve found it’s really up to you. Some places, like the pyramids for example, it’s actually very convenient because of the sun and you fend off vendors trying to sell you cheap turbans.
When I go to Khan el Khalili, I don’t cover my hair, but I do make a point to dress much more moderately. The vendors in Khan are rather funny. Don’t be surprised if you go and you hear phrases like “Spend you money here, make you very happy” or “Come to my shop, and marry me, I promise I shower everyday”
Some things that I have learned besides how to dress are what to say. The Arabic survival course really helped because the Egyptian dialect of Arabic is very different from the Modern Standard Arabic I’ve learned in the States. Greeting someone with Salam Aleikum without a smiling face will release the tension of ‘them vs. you’ and asserts you as a dignified person. The immediate reaction to Salam Alikum is Aleikem aSalam, which really lets this person know that you are not flirting or wanting other behavior besides respect. If someone will not stop trying to get your attention there are two phrases that greatly help.
1. Walk over to them sternly, make the sternest face you can, and say “3yb!”. Aiyb basically means shame and will remind these men of the days their mother would chastise them for being bad. You can also make the tisk tisk tisk hand gesture with this for added emphasis. My residence director has had great success with this phrase, and practicing saying Aiyb with a stern face is very amusing – although don’t crack when you do it for real!
2. The second phrase, which really should be used if a male is staring at you is “Ghud el Basr” (I may have not transliterated that correctly). This comes straight out of the Quran and means “Avert your gaze”. Saying this sternly will also be chastising as you are reminding the male not only that he shouldn’t be staring at you, but also that you
These phrases are more for men and boys that you won’t be in contact with everyday or that say something really inappropriate. For males that you come in contact with in a daily basis, i.e. shopkeepers, or kids on the street, if you set a tone initially that you mean business and you are not to be mocked or harassed they will respect you for it. They will even become protective of you if they see someone trying to harass you in or give you a hard time!
Besides these things, the number one most important thing to do IS TO IGNORE THEM. Men want to see a rise from you, no matter positive, negative, angry, or whatever. By ignoring them, or pretending that they don’t exist, they will stop immediately. If they continue to persist in getting your attention, the phrases above should be used. Also, don’t walk the streets of Cairo by yourself; go with a group, especially one that is mixed with males and females. It really helps. This has been my experience in Egypt thus far, and it has been useful. I haven’t had more than the usual phrases, kissing noises, and marriage proposals. ☺
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